Medieval St Albans West

The Saxons wanted to increase revenue for their Abbey. To achieve this, they diverted the Roman Watling Street from its original route through the old Roman city. Instead, the road was redirected down St Stephen’s Hill, at what is now the King Harry junction. It then continued past the Abbey and along Fishpool Street, before rejoining the original route. Fishpool Street was part of the main road from London to the Midlands and the North West until 1800. It is full of medieval buildings which were nearly demolished in the 1970s.

Starting at the Farriers Arms 🅐, the site of the inaugural meeting of the Hertfordshire Branch of CAMRA in November 1972, and still a great traditional back street pub. Originally a grocer's and butcher's shop during the 19th century, the Farriers became a pub in the 1920s and has since achieved legendary status. A classic back-street local, the pub was tied to McMullen's of Hertford for many years but became a free house in 2013. It is the only pub in the city never to have forsaken cask ale.

The split-level interior has a small area fronting the bar for stand-up drinking, darts and cards. The back room has more comfortable seating. Both bars are free of gaming machines but there is a TV for sports. Pizza and toasted sandwiches are available. The gents’ toilets are outside, but the ladies have recently been incorporated into the pub. Join us for a special Heritage Plaque Unveiling Celebration at 6pm on Thursday evening, where the local branch will be unveiling a new plaque in place of the former Blue Plaque.

WALK 1 minute. Turn right as you leave the public bar of the Farriers and you will see The Verulam Arms 🅑 in front of you, a 19th century, single bar pub just opposite the Farriers and Temperance Street! Be sure to check out Cask Monday, where all cask pints are £3.50.

WALK 7 minutes. Turn right as you leave the pub. At the end of Welclose Street, cross the road passing the boys' school on your right, go through the archway, and carry on down Abbey Mill Lane until you reach Ye Olde Fighting Cocks 🅒.

An amazing collection of 17th century component parts built around an even older relocated structure. Originally known as the Round House it was renamed circa 1800. The pub stakes a claim to be the oldest in England, dating (according to local legend and the pub’s own website) from the late 8th century. Archaeological research though, indicates that its oldest elements began life as an early 15th century pigeon house relocated from the Abbey grounds in the early 17th century.

Located down the hill from the Abbey next to Verulamium Park, with its lake, Roman remains and museum, this grade II listed pub’s interior is extensive, spread across three areas, with low beams, standing timbers, an inglenook and ample seating at wooden tables and in settles. There is a large refurbished garden to the rear with a new marquee and enclosed garden area for children. There is also some seating to the front of the pub by the river. Parking nearby is limited but there are car parks a pleasant walk away through Verulamium Park and along the River Ver.

WALK 12 minutes. On leaving the Fighting Cocks, walk over the bridge into Verulamium Park, then bear right so the river is on your right and the lake on your left. Continue in a straight line until you reach St Michael's Street. Turn left and The Six Bells 🅓 is a short way along.

A beautiful 17th century pub on the site of an older Pilgrim Hostel, and before that a Roman Hotel. Possibly the oldest hospitality site in Britain, this characterful pub is in the attractive St Michael's area of St Albans. About 1km from the city centre and Abbey, it sits on the edge of Verulamium Park, close to the Verulamium Museum and the Roman Theatre. Usually three regular beers and three changing guests, with a Vale Tap Takeover starting on Friday. Real cider is also regularly available on hand-pull during the summer months. Good quality home-cooked food is served lunchtimes and evenings, and themed food evenings are run on Thursdays once or twice a month. Outside there is a pleasant, covered patio area. Famously dog friendly.

WALK 9 minutes. Turn left as you leave the Six Bells and follow St Michael's Street. Continue into Branch Road and then turn right into Mount Pleasant. Continue along Mount Pleasant until you reach Portland Street on your left, where you'll find The Portland Arms 🅔.

An excellent 19th century local serving Fuller's beers. Be sure to also visit the 'Best of British' Beer & Food Festival starting on Thursday, featuring a range of excellent cask ales from breweries located across the country, along with delicious Yorkshire Pudding wraps and tempting cheese boards.

WALK 5 minutes. Turn left into Mount Pleasant, then right into Abbey View Road, then left into Ver Road, an unmade track. Follow this down the hill and you will reach the Lower Red Lion 🅕.

A listed 17th century two bar pub, with exposed woodwork. A CAMRA stalwart since the 1970s. Both bars have plenty of character and history. Located in an area between the city centre and the site of Roman Verulamium, the pub stands in one of St Albans' most picturesque streets. The Lower Red was an early champion of CAMRA's values in the cask ale revival movement, stocking quality cask beers. Home-made food is served lunchtimes and weekday evenings. There is a large beer garden, and over the weekend there are multiple special events including a 3 Brewers Tap Takeover starting on Thursday, a Meet The 3 Brewers event on Thursday evening and the Lower Red Beer Festival starts on Friday.

Note also:

• 21 St Michael's Street is said to be built on the site of the Colchester gateway into and from the Roman city. The line of St Michael's Street is Roman.

• Several ex-pubs, The Blue Anchor, The Black Horse and another three less obvious ones on Fishpool Street, plus one on its way back - The Rose & Crown in St Michael's.

• Verulamium Roman Museum in St Michael's.

• The bridge over the Ver in St Michael's - the oldest still in use for traffic in Hertfordshire.

• The Cathedral and Abbey Church of St Alban and its medieval gateway.